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Two of the last surviving "original" cabins on Shuswap
Lake, at Pierre's Point, about 10 km west of Salmon Arm
(between Sandy Point and Tappen) on the Trans Canada
highway, painted in 2000.
Once
upon
a lifetime ago, in the 1950s and 1960s, there was a long row
of cabins including these, nearly all of them on stilts, along
the shoreline. In June, at the height of the spring melt,
these cabins were often standing in a metre or more of water,
but by the end of summer they stood on the edge of 100 metres
of beach. No electricity, no running water, no worries – this
was "cottaging" in an era when people had more leisure than
money (for the BC interior, the 1940s and 1950s).
I write about Shuswap Lake with
some feeling and considerable knowledge as I spent the summers
from about age 7 through age 16 in a cabin like one of these.
I wrote about Shuswap Lake as part of a series of articles in
Cottage Magazine – the major article, positively
dripping with nostalgia, begins below. When I went back there
in the fall of 2000 I found very few of the old places still
standing and, to be honest, found it difficult to orient
myself. In the 35 years since we sold the cabin, trees had
grown old and died, places had been demolished and replaced by
new, plush ones and, most significantly, a couple of years of
freakishly high water had destroyed a number of cabins and
altered the shoreline.
These cabins qualify as "Vanishing
BC" because, in the 1950s, a couple with not much money and
two children (like my parents) could buy a cabin on a piece of
beautiful beach for $425 and retain it year after year for a
leasing fee of $50, made possible by the compliance
(oppression) of the local Indian band, on whose land it stood.
It is an interesting comparison with the cottages on the Gulf
Islands and the Sunshine
Coast, which are handed down from generation to
generation and for the families that own them more like "home"
than their year-round residences.
Please send in stories if you had a
cabin (never a cottage) on a lake such as these ones.
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Shuswap Summers
Michael Kluckner
(first published in Cottage Magazine, July/August
2000)
By comparison with people whose
families own Gulf Island retreats or cabins on prairie lakes, I
have no cottage to inherit, no family tradition to maintain. All
I’ve got is the memory of ten childhood summers on Shuswap Lake
in the B.C. interior.
My family has tended to go its separate ways, only coming
together for the occasional Christmas dinner. But a generation
ago, in the decade culminating in my sixteenth birthday, we made
an annual pilgrimage to “the lake.” There, from Dominion Day to
Labour Day, my mother, brother Paul, and I (joined by my father
for his annual vacation and sporadically by other relatives)
lived a carefree, shoeless--or at least sockless--existence.
I have often wondered since how much of the magic was due to
physical circumstances--the lake, the forest and the cabin--and
how much was due to timing. Although it was the 50s and 60s,
which today’s conventional wisdom brands as materialistic and
obsessed with newness, my parents were content with the rustic
cabin and the utter relaxation it offered. We children were
simple creatures, used to making our own fun. There was little
to do beyond imagine and play, and few of the other people on
the lake had enough money to spoil it.
Earlier, we had spent my father’s summer holidays on car trips,
usually tenting in provincial park campgrounds. We ranged across
the country to visit relatives in Quebec, and travelled through
the American west to Yellowstone National Park and down the
coast to California. The summer I was seven, after spending a
week at a dude ranch called Rose Lake Lodge near 100 Mile House,
we detoured to Salmon Arm rather than returning directly to the
coast via the Fraser Canyon. “Your father has an old army friend
he’d like to visit,” mother explained.
Arriving late on the sultry evening before the planned
rendezvous, we stopped at a resort called Glen Echo, near Tappen
on the west side of Shuswap Lake not far from Salmon Arm, just
as a thunderstorm was massing in the sky above Bastion Mountain.
As the wind picked up, Dad wrestled with the flapping canvas
while Mum spread out our prospective dinner, which looked a lot
like lunch, on the front seat of the ‘54 Chev sedan. In the
middle of the night, with the downpour drumming on the tent roof
and our parents trying to keep us from rolling against its
canvas sides, a wild roar shook us awake and a shockingly
bright, white light flooded the tent. I saw trees starkly
silhouetted, panicked, and, clawing my way out of my sleeping
bag, was restrained by my father’s arm as the train screamed
past. We were sleeping no more than 50 feet from the CPR
mainline!
The following day, at the suggestion of the army buddy, we moved
into his cabin at Pierre’s Point, a cottage community a half
mile south of Glen Echo and a few hundred yards (at least) from
the tracks. At the end of an idyllic week there, it turned out
he was considering selling it. Perhaps my parents were tired of
the road trips, or were irritated by the public campgrounds, or
found my brother and me too unruly to camp with. Perhaps they’d
planned it all along? I was told later they paid $425; our house
in Vancouver was worth perhaps $15,000.
After so many hours in the hot car gazing at scenery or
rereading memorized comic books in the back seat, Paul and I
thought the lakefront cabin was heaven. At the end of a rutted,
single-lane dirt track, this simple frame box with a low-pitched
moss-covered roof and an uncovered front deck stood on stilts in
a cottonwood grove on the edge of the beach, midway between the
lake’s high- and low-water marks. By August, 50 yards of white
sand separated it from the shoreline. A few floats and docks
extended into the water and a few rowboats were pulled up onto
the sand. Behind the cabin stretched mysterious, explorable
forest. I remember card houses built by the light of the hissing
Coleman lamps, hinged windows that latched under the eaves to
let in the afternoon breeze, pancakes cooked on the woodstove’s
griddle, and the icebox chilled by ice dug from the sawdust in
an old icehouse that the local people filled with blocks cut
from the lake each winter. We got our water in bottles each week
in Salmon Arm, and bought fruit and vegetables from local
farmers.
There were no urban diversions, nothing to keep us indoors
except heavy rain. A powerful, battery-operated radio provided
the only link to the outside world: newscasts on the local
station at dinner time, a Top-40 radio show for an hour in the
evening and, on clear nights, B.C. Lions football games
broadcast from Vancouver on CKWX, or was it CKNW?
We bought a rowboat and a few airmattresses and spent endless
hours rowing and swimming. I was the sort of child who
identified with the Indians in western movies, and stealthily
explored the woods, dressed in a breechcloth and moccasins with
a feather stuck in my headband. Mosquito bait. In the evenings,
I carved and painted bear claws and other regalia with my
pocketknife and paintbrushes.
One reason the place was so affordable for my parents was that
we, along with the other cottagers, were exploiting the real
Indians, members of the Shuswap band whose land we were leasing
for an annual fee of $50 per lot. Slowly, in heavily-laden
station wagons and sedans, we cottagers trundled down the
potholed road from the highway to the lake, lumbering through
the real Pierre’s Point--small, government-built
bungalows with low-pitched roofs, pink siding on the lower half
of the walls and stucco above, a hayfield bisected by the CPR
mainline, a pole and plywood barn sheltering a couple of horses,
old bicycles and broken-down cars strewn about, children playing
in the dust. When my parents replaced the ‘54 with a
powder-blue, 1959 Impala convertible with huge tailfins, our
arrival must have shouted “city slickers.”
The other cottagers were, in the main, folks from Salmon Arm.
The Glens next door owned the sporting goods store, and had a
14-foot fibreglass speedboat with an 18-horsepower Johnson
outboard motor. As difficult as it is to imagine now, when 200
horsepower skiboats are de rigueur, a boat that size was
adequate for pulling everybody but one fat relative, who nearly
dragged it over backwards. Their well-endowed daughter wore a
bikini, a matter of some comment among adults and
binocular-toting boys.
In the next cabin lived the Magees. He was a contract logger,
with a portable sawmill, a logging truck and a V8-powered work
boat used for towing log booms from the far reaches of the lake.
Beyond a thicket stood the cabin of the Gorses, who had a coal
business in Salmon Arm; in the 60s, they were among the first to
rent the sort of houseboats for which Shuswap Lake is now
well-known. The town’s electrician and family occupied the next
cabin. We came to know a handful of other children further along
the beach due to the elaborate games, usually variations on
“hide and seek,” that occupied us many afternoons and, following
the banged frypan summoning us to dinner, through until
twilight. If rain ever persisted, the jigsaw puzzles were put
away and a game of Monopoly would begin, sometimes continuing
for days.
The Magees’ two children, Susan and Nigel, became our steady
companions, joined occasionally by the Glen’s boy, Randy. Nigel
was my age while Susan, a slender, dark-haired, pretty girl, was
a year or so older--almost my brother’s age. As we grew up, I
developed a heartrending crush on her, reinforced by Nigel’s
absence much of the time, working with his father, and Paul’s
trips each summer to a YMCA camp. Susan and I spent endless
hours swimming, rowing, talking about pop music, movie stars and
the mindless fashions of the time, or playing cards--”Snap” and
“Fish” in the early years, gin rummy and cribbage later--on the
covered porch of her cabin. Meanwhile, my mother puttered
happily along, sunbathing and reading Perry Mason novels, never
obviously lonely or bored. When Dad came up from the city, he
would manage a morning’s relaxation before the leisurely
lakeside pace got to him and he sought something to fix--in slow
years, he was reduced to raking leaves from the sandy trails
that ran around the cabin and out back to the biffy. We thought
he was crazy.
Although they steadfastly refused our reasoned yet passionate
arguments on why we needed a waterski boat, my parents
eventually bought a very used five-horsepower outboard, perhaps
to help get Aunt Ruby out to better trolling grounds. Meanwhile,
however, a more up-to-date, affluent group of vacationers had
discovered Shuswap. Even by the mid-60s the air was alive with
the buzzing of outboards and the shrieks of waterskiers as they
zipped along the beachfront. Many were from the commercial
resort, Sandy Point, a mile closer to Salmon Arm.
Sandy Point had a convenience store and a steady parade of
campers, notably girls, who passed through during the summer. As
we shuffled into teenagehood, its comparatively bright lights
beckoned. For the first time, a note of disapproval crept into
mother’s voice. She had always been tolerant of our exploring,
our swimming, our trips in the rowboat way out into the lake,
somehow certain that the combination of our common sense and the
benign world would keep us from harm.
The electrician neighbour came by one summer, trying to sign my
parents up for a scheme to bring in a power line from the
highway. They couldn’t see the point in it, but enough others
did. The electrician had his cabin wired, like a display suite,
and installed a television that attracted the small-town
children like wasps to a cherry pie. Soon, there were no evening
games and fewer family campfires and sing-alongs. I began to
hear amplified music as I walked along the beach.
As quickly as it began, our cabin idyll ended. Concurrently, my
mother became ill and could only spend a couple of weeks away
from home. We no longer got into the lakeside pace, and the 1966
Lovin’ Spoonful song, “Summer in the City,” took on a real
meaning. Late that summer, Susan’s boyfriend came out from town;
the following year, immediately after high-school graduation,
they married. Her parents announced they were moving to Salt
Spring Island, where there were good logging opportunities and a
better climate for retirement. Nigel went to Alberta to look for
work. Randy grew his hair past his shoulders and joined a rock
band. Paul had a summer job at the dam site near Castlegar and
was returning to university in the fall. Left behind that hot
August, I just drifted, hanging out at the beach parties at
Sandy Point, with the harvest moon glowing orange in the
forest-fire smoke. This, I recall thinking, will be my last
summer at this dull place--next year I’ll get a job in the city.
Dad sold the cabin the following year, ostensibly because the
lease rates were about to triple. But, in reality, everything
had changed and there was no going back.
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From
Bill Suckling, Blind Bay, 2011:

Pierre's Point cabins near the Glen Echo
end, about 1953

View from out on the lake, 1950s
Classic view across the lake to
Engineer's Point, on the right, looking up the arm toward
Sicamous.

At the Skelton Cabin at Pierre's Point,
about 1947

View of Salmon Arm in the early 1950s
I just read your article on the
Shuswap Pierre's Point experiences [above]. I must say it
brought back many wonderful memories I had long forgotten. It is
almost a carbon copy of my experiences while growing up spending
summers there. Thinking about it I really must share a few
thoughts.
So may descriptions of time spent are parallel .. reading comics
on the porch when it was raining ... the after-supper games of
what we called 'kick the can'; There were no rules – you just
kind of ran around pretending to hide and I really don't
remember how they ended ... I do remember seeing the Dominion or
possibly the Canadian rounding Engineer' Point and waiting for
it to come by the cabin .. which signified bedtime by the way.
Our cabin had planks as a floor with cracks between which is
where we swept the sand tracked in ... we had an ice box and
Mother made ice in milk cartons at home - we still had milk
delivered in bottles but could request cartons if desired which
were brought out weekly. We also had a Dumb Waiter of sorts
built into the sand which operated on a pull rope pulley system
kind of like a small elevator ... the cabinet sunk down into the
sand about three feet and served as a cool room. Access was from
the kitchen. My daily chores included stocking the wood box and
making kindling plus rowing to the spring to get fresh water. I
suspect it was designed to use up some time during the day but I
still have great memories of visiting that little spring below
the Bedford cabins and tasting that clear cold water. Funny how
such a simple pleasure is so fondly remembered.
We also played long and hard with our immediate neighbors the
Jameson (sp?) clan. There were 5 children – Sue, Mary, Larry,
Nancy and JoAnne. Their Father Rollie had a sheet metal plumbing
business in town. Mrs J. (Marge) had a large cow bell and it
ruled the beach in our group. Swim time was 10AM for 1 hour and
again at 2PM for 2 hours. When that bell rang you had best be
getting out of the water if you wanted to swim next time around.
Pavlov would have been impressed. Beach activity followed
building sand castles and whatever else the plan dictated at the
time. No texting, no TV and no phone – not even any power but
somehow we all survived.
Not sure about your beach time but we had this rule about not
going swimming for an hour after you ate or you would get cramps
... you ever get cramps?? My mother came clean many years later
telling us it was a way to keep us out of the water for a while
requiring less supervision. I have a notion that story was used
many time. I have never met anyone who got cramps from swimming
immediately after a meal.
One of the best memories was Fridays. Because my Dad worked in
town during the week, he would drive out on Friday after work
... he brought fresh ice, vegetables from our garden and frozen
meat but best of all he brought a brick of ice cream. We always
had a big lunch on Fridays so that we could have the ice cream
when it arrived because it was usually so hot it would not
survive long. No supper as such that day but later on in the
evening we had a camp fire and ate some marshmallows and
sometimes even a hot dog. The marshmallows came in a kind of
package/box called campfire and they were always rock hard so it
was a trial and error to get them on a fresh cut willow stick.
Another exciting time was all about water skiing. Of course none
of us had a boat with a motor ... I remember well a family
friend of the J's came to spend a week. He brought a tent and
joined our clan .. Bob Jeglum and family (sp). He brought a
boat, not a huge one but it had a 40HP Evinrude. WOW! We all got
to water ski. We each had a turn and some twice. We were in
heaven so to speak and in the “big times,” so we thought.
Such> simple pleasures were a daily happening throughout
those carefree summers back then.
Mosquitos Mosquitos Mosquitos – I must share this .... as you
are well aware I think, Pierre's Point must have been the
mosquito capital of the world. At least it seemed like it at the
time. One particular summer one of the local cabin owners who
had an orchard in the South Broadview area, BIll McDermot, used
his tractor to pull his orchard sprayer out to Pierre's and they
sprayed from the point to the Glen Echo end ... I can well
imagine what the chemical was but it sure worked. After the
tractor and sprayer noise was gone the air was so quiet and no
mosquitos. I suspect it was DDT and diesel fuel mixed with
water.
Some of the other local Family names of cabin owners were Bob
Harvey, Herb Elliot, Spence Tatchel, Dick Cousins, Albert
Bedford, Harry Absen, Bill McDermot and Sam Miller to name a
few. Spelling not necessarily correct.
I recently sold my 23-foot pontoon boat as the lake had become a
total lawless playground for the current players who seem to
think they own it and can do what they please whenever and
wherever ... particularly in July and August. There is some
effort to “enforce” the issues but typically manpower shortages,
legal issues and general societal mindsets are restricting the
success. Gone are the days when you could go on the lake for a
pleasant cruise, find some quiet shore (no stereos) to rest a
while and perhaps enjoy a picnic. I am so thankful to have had
the “Shuswap Experience” at a time when your word meant
something and a handshake sealed a deal.
***
Note from Cheryl Christianson née
Hammer, 2010: We were at Pierre's Point approx. 1965 to
1976. We were at the very end - near Glen Echo - neighbours were
Obens, Coglins - once in awhile we played with Minnow Campbell
(his family had one of the oldest sites - near the 'native'
beach) then - at the other end, near Sandy Point we chummed with
Mercers and Brushes.
I've attached 1974 images of buildings – the boat launch has
Coglin's cabin (one of the only ones actually build
on the beach along 'our' whole stretch (we used to sleep
on the sand under the deck when the water was low enough) and our
little unit with many family sitting watching something wonderful
I am sure! I worked at Sandy Point Resort with my close
friend Eileen Lidstone around the same time as the attached
photos.
Note from Sandra Jacob, 2008: We still have our family
cabin at Pierre's Point. Each time the lease goes up,
we have the debate of "sell or not sell. " Our place is
just south 3 cabins from the one pictured on your web
page. Fifty years is a long time and we are currently hanging
on for "one more year". My nephew plans to be married at the
cabin this summer.
I was born in Salmon Arm, and so was my mother. My
grandfather, Jack Urquhart, had an ice house at the back of the
city lot, and I do remember the ice being hauled from the lake and
stored there. He had a delivery business and supplied ice for the
ice boxes in town. By the time we had the place at Pierre's
Point the ice business was finished for Urquhart's Transfer. In
our early time at the lake mom would make ice in the deep
freeze in town to keep our food cool in the ice box. We had
electricity installed about 1969.
We have all found the sound of the train and the rocking in the
night somewhat comforting. The bedtime train coming around
Engineer's Point at about 10:45 would remind us to get to
bed. The young people now don't seem to want to be up early in the
morning for the best time of the day. We have made many trips
with the youngsters up to the tracks to count the cars on the
train .
We acquired the lot from Gene Spence (who was the postmaster at
the time) in the early 50's. My dad and uncle built the
cabin, probably around 1952. When my parents were young, that same
property was leased by the Jacksons from Salmon Arm, and the
young people spent quite a bit of time there. My mom used to tell
us about walking the cow along the tracks to pasture at the back
so they would have milk while they were camping. There are
pictures! There were a a couple of concrete slabs on the
beach on which that group erected tents; one for a cook house. We
still find bits of concrete coming to the surface when the
children are digging.
Note from Ted Hayes, Prince George: I was born and spent my
early years in Kamloops where my father was a machinist on the
CPR. Quite a few Kamloops tradesmen and their families used to
spend their summer holidays at Glen Echo at the resort that still
exists today. My parents did not have a car, but their friends
would drive us to the lake in their A40 Austins.
People with more money stayed in the cabins on the beach while we
usually stayed in a cabin on the highway side of the tracks. All
of the cabins were extremely primitive. As I recollect, they had
iron frame beds, plain wooden table and chairs and a small wood
cooking range. I think they had only one room. I think that there
was no electricity and that we used oil lamps with mantles. If you
didn't stay in the beach cabins, you used to have to cross the
railway tracks to get to the beach. Rowboats were available for
fishing and there was a reduced daily rate if you rented a boat
with your cabin. I remember the dirt road from the cabins, across
the tracks to the beach. It was lush and dark -- quite unlike
Kamloops. And the cabins were dark in the trees.
We went there on our holidays every year for several years from
about 1950. I remember that the Summers family who owned the paint
store in Kamloops used to go there with their kids who were about
my age. I think the Fills, who lived more or less across the alley
from us in Kamloops went there a few times, too. Howard Fill
worked for the CNR and was a local war hero. His wife, Grace, was
an English war bride. I think the Fills also used to go to Silvery
Beach. The resort had a little store in the house where the owner
lived. We could get supplies of various sorts there.
The beach was beautiful. Sandy with flecks of mica through it. The
lake was wonderful. I learned to swim on those holidays. Kamloops
was not a particularly good place to learn to swim because the
only place to do it was the Thompson River (no swimming pools in
those days). It was rather swift for small children and always
seemed to be under polio quarantine in the summer. But Shuswap was
warm with a sandy bottom and no current. I remember the beach sand
and how it would get so hot during the day that it was difficult
to walk on it. We would have to run across the beach into the
water.
I think that the last time we went to Glen Echo was probably 1958
or 59 after a few years' hiatus. By then we had moved to Squamish
and my father had a bought a car. Few of the Kamloops families
went there by that time. I remember a coast family named Ward
staying there. I don't think they had stayed there before. Like
you, I still remember those endlessly hot summer days with great
affection. I can still smell the damp, verdant air around the
lake's perimetre. I can still feel the excitement of fishing in
the row boat and peering down into the blackness of the water.
In my adult years, I have been many times to Shuswap. What is most
noticeable is the commercialization and the people. Neither were
much evident in the 50s. And power boats were pretty scarce. There
were a few small communities and a few resorts here and there.
That was about it. I'm not sure you can find places like that any
more.
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